Ouille or Sous Voile? Francois Rousset-Martin Does Both, Beautifully
Francois Rousset-Martin係位於侏羅Nevy-sur-Seille嘅釀酒師，佢將酵母膜當成可以精準運用嘅手法💝，而唔係一成不變嘅傳統。喺大約十公頃有機葡萄園入面，佢同時以 ouillé 同 sous voile 兩種方式釀酒。薩瓦年（Savagnin）係酒莊靈魂，霞多麗（Chardonnay）、普爾薩（Poulsard）同黑皮諾（Pinot Noir）亦各有位置。
佢喺Jura兩種經典風格之間游刃有餘🤩：ouillé 係將酒桶填滿，保留新鮮度、張力同清澈香氣；sous voile 則讓酒喺酵母膜下慢慢陳釀，慢慢長出鹹香、堅果同鮮味嘅層次。佢嘅Chardonnay 同ouillé Savagnin強調輕盈、清晰同風土個性，而sous voile嘅酒則更深沉、更有鹹香複雜度。
葡萄酒按地塊分開釀造，土壤有黏土、石灰岩，亦有賦予侏羅白酒獨特礦物感嘅藍灰泥灰岩。每個地塊都用原生酵母獨立發酵，喺細酒渣上陳年，裝瓶時唔澄清、唔過濾，亦唔加硫。葡萄酒感覺有生命力🌱，而唔係刻意調配出嚟。
由Gravières同Beaumont緊緻有力、礦物感滿滿嘅Chardonnay，到 Vignes aux Dames 香氣細緻嘅Savagnin，再到喺酵母膜下陳釀53個月、層次深邃嘅Oxy More Voile No. 4，呢一系列完整展現咗Francois Rousset-Martin對侏羅嘅理解💝。佢令侏羅感覺既承載傳統，又充滿新可能——精準得足以吸引勃艮第愛好者，又有足夠個性滿足侏羅粉絲，而且始終帶有佢個人鮮明嘅印記。
即日起至10月19日，所有Francois Rousset-Martin 葡萄酒一律九五折。
Francois Rousset-Martin is a Jura producer based at Nevy-sur-Seille who treats the veil of yeast as a precise instrument rather than a fixed tradition💝, using both ouillé and sous voile across roughly ten hectares of organic vines. Savagnin sits at the heart of the estate, alongside Chardonnay, Poulsard and Pinot Noir.
He moves fluently between the two classic Jura styles🤩: ouillé, where barrels are topped up to keep freshness, tension and aromatic purity, and sous voile, where the wine matures under a veil of yeast and develops savoury, nutty, umami complexity. His Chardonnays and ouillé Savagnins emphasise lift, clarity and site expression, while the sous-voile wines develop greater depth and savoury complexity.
The wines are made parcel by parcel on clay, limestone and the blue and grey marls that give Jura whites their mineral intensity. Each site is vinified separately with indigenous yeasts, aged on fine lees, and bottled unfined, unfiltered and without added sulphur. The result feels alive rather than engineered.🌱
From the taut mineral Chardonnays of Gravieres and Beaumont to the perfumed Vignes aux Dames Savagnin and the profound Oxy More Voile No. 4—Savagnin that has spent 53 months beneath the voile—these wines trace the full breadth of Rousset-Martin’s Jura💝. He makes the region feel both rooted and newly possible: precise enough for Burgundy lovers, wild enough for Jura devotees, and always unmistakably his own.
All Francois Rousset-Martin wines are currently 5% off till Oct 19.
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Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Gravieres 2020 (36 months) - Bt
HK$700 ▷ HK$665
Deep gold and richly textured, this old-vine Jura Chardonnay comes from a tiny parcel in Lavigny. Aromas of toasted sesame, honeyed flowers, roasted nuts and bruised orchard fruit lead into a palate of butterscotch, ripe citrus, burnt orange, baking spice and wet stone. Bright acidity balances the ripeness, while the viscous texture and long, mineral-driven finish suggest real aging potential.
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Beaumont Chardonnay 2020 - Bt | RP95
HK$800 ▷ HK$760
Beaumont and Sous Roche are two terroirs of Château Chalon planted with Chardonnay, one of which produced the 2020 Chardonnay Beaumont on gray marl, with 60-year-old vines on the slope that is not plowed, just cutting the grass, which, to him, gives more minerality. It has elegance and an ethereal quality, showing really well; it's still pale and young. The wines are aging with the full lees and, in this case, even a little longer. The wine has volume and length, but it's also sharp, with the tastiness and almost saltiness of Château Chalon. 1,000 bottles were filled in January 2024.
-95, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate, August 2024
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura 'Meme Marie' 2020 - Bt
HK$800 ▷ HK$760
A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Savagnin, named after Grandmother Marie. The Savagnin is aged sous-voile for three months, it is then blended with the Chardonnay, and the blend is then aged for 11 months in stainless steel. Unfined and unfiltered, it shows bruised apple, pear, and a light flor note, then lemon curd, orchard fruit, almond and slate. Vibrant acidity and impressive length complete a complex, memorable wine.
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Vignes aux Dames Savagnin 2020 - Bt | RP97+
HK$900 ▷ HK$855
I tasted again the 2020 Savagnin Vigne Aux Dames because he didn't bottle the grapes from the vineyard in 2021 because yields were very low after the frost. Like it did last year when I first tasted it, the wine shows superbly; I'd say it's even better now. This had a long aging, four years in cask. Even in a slightly warmer year, this is only 12.5% alcohol, and it's serious, austere and highly mineral, energetic, vibrant and fresh, with a long, dry and salty finish. It's aging very slowly. Like last year, we also sampled the unbottled 2022 that took very long to ferment—took two years—but the slow process gives more complexity, and it's riper than 2020, super tasty, round and long, with a spicy twist, yuzu and white pepper. It's super fresh with a pH of 3.05, ripe but vibrant. This 2022 will age nicely.
-97+, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate, September 2025
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Cuvee du Professeur Sous-Roche 2019 - Bt
HK$900 ▷ HK$855
From 30-year-old Savagnin vines on gray marl in Château-Chalon, this ouillé white ferments spontaneously in neutral oak and ages long on fine lees with regular topping up. Deep straw-gold, it opens with preserved lemon, green apple, crushed walnut and damp slate. Yellow plum, white pepper and salted citrus oil drive a dense, textured palate, cut by electric acidity and finishing long, dry and intensely saline.
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Oxy More Voile No 4 Savagnin 2020 (53 months) - Bt
HK$980 ▷ HK$930
This old-vine Savagnin from Jura limestone and marl develops deep oxidative richness while retaining surprising freshness. Roasted nuts, almond, dried apricot, citrus peel, hazelnut and ginger unfold across a dense, textured palate. Bright acidity cuts through the weight, giving a long, layered finish that feels both powerful and precise.
Francois Rousset-Martin Cotes du Jura Cuvee 909 Pinot Noir 2020 - Bt
HK$800 ▷ HK$760
Ruby with garnet highlights, it shows fresh cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, mineral and a light pepper note. Silky tannins, bright acidity and a long, energetic finish give it tension and finesse, with the structure to reward a few more years in bottle.
In stock now, and offered subject to final confirmation and remaining unsold. E. & O. E.
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