One Generous, One Electric: Vincent Gaudry’s Two 2022 Sancerres
Vincent Gaudry喺Sury-en-Vaux，想釀出仍然品得出當地風土嘅Sancerre🌟。法國《葡萄酒評論》（Revue des Vins de France）畀咗佢兩星，正好點出呢個方向：「佢留心聽古人講過嘅嘢。低調嘅Vincent Gaudry，想把他認為已經失傳的Sancerre白酒帶回來。精準、真誠，要的是有身份的酒。」
佢係產區入面最早放棄化學藥劑嘅人之一。九十年代中開始做有機，之後再轉生物動力，一路都係順住塊地嚟做。11公頃，葡萄藤平均超過四十年，大部分係Sauvignon Blanc，少少Pinot Noir，種植喺三種令Sancerre成名嘅土壤上：silex 燧石土帶嚟張力同長度，terres blanches白土帶嚟結構同口感，caillottes石灰石碎土帶嚟香氣同清新。
酒窖入面，佢識得等。用天然酵母，蘋果酸乳酸發酵任由佢完成，長時間待在細酒渣上，不澄清不過濾，二氧化硫大約只有當地慣常用量嘅一半。唔係那種明亮、早熟嘅 Sauvignon Blanc：有深度、有張力，礦物感骨幹🫶。
呢份耐心，就見於兩款 cuvée：年份有佢想要嘅能量，先至裝瓶。兩款都極少，都在大舊木桶放大約兩年。Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Pour Vous 2022 來自黏土白堊土上超過五十年的老藤，比較開放：熟蘋果走向焦糖蘋果塔，濃郁但收得住個核心，尾韻長，帶一點暖香料。Vincent Gaudry Sancerre A Mi-Chemin 2022來自Saint-Satur的燧石土，聞起來成熟、好親近，入口之後收緊，燧石和香料風味，需要時間。一款好親近，一款更有勁。並排一齊飲，先見到佢心目中嘅 Sancerre。💝
兩款即日起至10月14日，都有九五折。
Vincent Gaudry, in Sury-en-Vaux, is after a Sancerre that still tastes of where it was grown🌟. The Revue des Vins de France, giving him two stars, caught the aim: “Listening to the ancients, discreet Vincent Gaudry wish to reconnect with a white Sancerre taste he considers lost. A precise sincerity and a vision for Sancerre wines with identity.”
Among the first in the appellation to give up chemicals, he went organic in the mid-1990s, then biodynamic, and has spent the years since trying not to force the land. Eleven hectares, vines averaging over 40 years, mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a little Pinot Noir, sit on the three soils that make a Sancerre worth the name: silex for tension and length, terres blanches for structure and mouthfeel, and caillottes for perfume and freshness.
In the cellar he waits. Native yeasts, malolactic left to finish, a long rest on fine lees, nothing fined or filtered, sulphur at roughly half the local norm. Not a bright, early Sauvignon Blanc: depth, tension, a mineral line that feels considered🫶.
That patience shows in two cuvées he bottles only when the year has the energy he wants. Both are extremely limited; both spend about two years in used foudres. Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Pour Vous 2022, from vines over 50 on clay-chalk, is the open one: ripe apple toward tarte tatin, richness in a compact core, a finish that stays, warm with spice. Vincent Gaudry Sancerre A Mi-Chemin 2022, off flint at Saint-Satur, seems ripe and welcoming, then tightens — flint, spice, a line that will not let go, and that needs time. One generous, one electric. Side by side, the point of his Sancerre is there. 💝
Both cuvees are on offer at 5% off until Oct 14!
SPECIAL OFFER:
Enjoy 5% off on Vincent Gaudry wines
Promotion period: until Oct 14, 2026
Vincent Gaudry Sancerre Pour Vous 2022 - Bt | VNS93
HK$1280 ▷ HK$1215
Tasting note
In contrast to the tension of À Mi-Chemin, this Sancerre grown on flint soils, the 2022 Pour Vous, is much more open and richly fruited. Hailing from vines over 50 years old with their feet in clay chalk soils, you can expect ripe apples, which verge on tarte tatin-like flavors. While there's richness and depth of concentration, it's all contained within a compact core. The finish is lingering, powerful and warmly spiced.
Score: 93
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com, July 2024
Vincent Gaudry Sancerre A Mi-Chemin 2022 - Bt | VNS93
HK$1500 ▷ HK$1425
Tasting note
The 2022 À Mi-Chemin is not a wine you should judge by its cover: initially, it seems very ripe, fruity and welcoming on the nose. But then it shows its true colors. This wine is the vinous equivalent of having a bucket of water thrown in your face while you're asleep. The tension and mineral flinty character are real wake-up calls for your palate. Its persistence and line are powerfully pushed across your palate. It has spice and momentum and holds you tight. The 2022 needs time. It was grown on a flint-rich parcel in the village of Saint-Satur, which sits below the hilltop town of Sancerre.
Score: 93
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com, July 2024
In stock now, and offered subject to final confirmation and remaining unsold. E. & O. E.
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